Stratonicea: “The City of Gladiators” in the Carian Hills
In the valley between Yatağan and Milas, near the modern village of Eskihisar in Muğla Province, lie the extensive ruins of Stratonicea (Turkish: Stratonikeia)—one of the largest and least-visited ancient cities of Caria. This is a unique site: an ancient polis, a medieval settlement, an Ottoman village, and an abandoned 20th-century mining settlement all exist here on the same level. Stratonicea is often called the “city of gladiators” due to the huge number of tombstones found here depicting arena fighters.
History and Origin of Stratonicea
The city was founded by the Seleucid king Antiochus I Soter (reigned 281–261 BCE) and named after his wife, Queen Stratonice. The settlement arose on the site of the older Carian city of Idria (or Chrysaoris) and immediately became the center of the so-called Chrysaoric League—an alliance of Carian cities.
During the Hellenistic period, Stratonicea passed between the Seleucids, Rhodes, and the Attalids of Pergamon, and in 129 BCE, along with the province of Asia, it became part of the Roman Republic. In 40 BCE, the city withstood a siege by the Parthians, who supported Labienus; for this, Emperor Augustus awarded Stratonicea honorary privileges. Under Hadrian, the city received the honorary name Hadrianopolis, although the old name remained in common use.
In 365 CE, a powerful earthquake destroyed a significant portion of the buildings. A small Byzantine church was built on the ruins, which remained in use until the 7th century; the site was later converted into a cemetery. During the Seljuk and Ottoman periods, the village of Eskihisar (“old fortress”) emerged here, which existed until the end of the 20th century. Its residents were resettled due to the development of a coal mine for the neighboring Yatağan Thermal Power Plant; part of the Stratonicea necropolis was destroyed by the mine.
Since 2015, Stratonicea has been included on the UNESCO Tentative List of World Heritage Sites as a unique example of a multi-layered settlement—Carian, Roman, Byzantine, Seljuk, Ottoman, and modern.
Architecture and What to See
The North Gate and the Colonnaded Street
The northern gate, with an adjacent nymphaeum (fountain), served as the main entrance to the city. From the gate begins a paved street with two rows of columns, leading to the center of the ancient city. Today, it is easy to navigate along this street.
Boulevterion
One of the best-preserved bouleuteria in ancient Caria. The rectangular council building, with its stone benches, could accommodate several hundred people. Inscriptions are carved into the interior walls, including fragments of Diocletian’s Edict on Prices from 301 AD, which regulated the cost of goods and services throughout the Roman Empire.
Gymnasium
The massive gymnasium, measuring 105 by 267 meters, is one of the largest in Asia Minor. The foundations, fragments of colonnades, and dedicatory inscriptions have survived. Archaeologists continue to excavate this complex.
Theater
The Hellenistic theater on the hillside could seat about 10,000–12,000 spectators. The cavea is well-preserved; the aisles and part of the stage building are visible. The theater offers a panoramic view of the rest of the city and the valley.
Baths and Agora
The site features the remains of Roman baths, a public agora with adjacent colonnades, and fragments of temples. Of particular interest are the rural houses from the Ottoman period with carved wooden elements, standing right among the ancient ruins—a vivid demonstration of the site’s layered history.
Interesting Facts and Legends
- Stratonicea was named after Stratonice—the wife of Antiochus I, who had previously been the wife of his father, Seleucus I. The story of their marriage became a classic ancient tale of passion that even a king could not resist.
- The bouleuterion at Stratonicea preserves one of the most complete copies of Diocletian’s edict on maximum prices—an invaluable source on the economy of the late Roman Empire.
- More than 30 tombstones depicting gladiators have been found in the area, which is unusually high for such a city. It is possible that there was a gladiator school in Stratonicea or that regular games were held in the local amphitheater.
- The village of Eskihisar stood among the ancient ruins for nearly a thousand years; its last residents were relocated only in the 1980s. The Ottoman houses have survived and are now part of a tourist route.
- Part of the Stratonicea necropolis was destroyed during the expansion of the Yatağan coal mine; this is one of the most tragic episodes of the interaction between heritage and industry in 20th-century Turkey.
How to get there
Stratonicea is located near the village of Eskihisar, approximately 1 km from the D330 highway between Yatağan and Milas, Muğla Province. GPS coordinates: 37°18′47″N 28°03′51″E. The nearest airport is Bodrum (BJV, Milas-Bodrum), about 60 km away. An alternative is Dalaman (DLM), approximately 130 km away.
By car from Bodrum or Marmaris, it takes about an hour on the D330 highway. From Yatağan, local dolmuşes run to Eskihisar; the ride takes 10–15 minutes. The signs on the highway are clear—“Stratonikeia Antik Kenti.”
It’s convenient to combine this visit with a trip to Lagina—the sanctuary of Hecate, the main goddess of Stratonicea (about 8 km to the north)—as well as the towns of Mylasa (Milas) and Labraunda to the west.
Tips for travelers
The best seasons are March–May and October–November. In summer, the Carian Valley is hot and dusty (the proximity to the coal mine makes itself felt on windy days). The site is open in winter, but rain is possible.
Allow at least 2–3 hours: the site is large, and the distances between areas are significant. Wear closed-toe shoes with sturdy soles. Bring water with you—there are no snack bars within the site itself; the nearest ones are in Eskihisar and Yatağan.
Start your tour at the north gate and walk along the colonnaded street to the bouleuterion, then to the gymnasium and the theater. On your way back, stop by the Ottoman houses—they provide a striking contrast to the ancient part of the site.
Stratonicea is a place for those who love archaeology without the crowds. It’s almost always quiet here, so you can spend a long time studying the inscriptions and reflecting on how the same square meter of land has witnessed dozens of different eras. Bring a notebook: there are impressive Greek inscriptions on the blocks that haven’t been photographed everywhere.